If you leave Trelew on the Route 3 going south (most of the time straight) you will reach a petrol station. Here you can go on for another 170km (most of the time straight) or you turn, as we did, left, and drive further 70km (almost straight, there are some hills in the way) until you reach the coast. There you will find the small village of Camarones founded 1905. 200km north and 200km south along the coast there is nothing. And this village only exists because of a fishing port, some beaches for the 3 months summer season and especially because of penguins.
If you leave the village and you follow the coast on a dirt road for about 25km you will find a National park with one of the biggest penguin colonies of Patagonia. About 9000 penguin couples come here every year for the 6 months breading seasons. As we arrived at the end of the day we were lucky and had them all for us alone.
We were amazed how human penguins are and especially how human their non verbal communication is. It feels so easy to understand them and their feelings. And it is amazing how curious the penguins were. Living in a national park they had no bad experiences with humans and do trust them fully.
The village of Camarones is famous as it is the home town of the former President Peron. There is the usual museum on the family. Appart from this, there is not much in the village except a lot of space, a lot of wind and some old houses. But all of this gives it a special charm and we did enjoy the village a lot. One of them was the house of a German carpenter named Vogel who came here 1905 and was famous for his work. His nickname was “Mister Dick” (the fat one).
The only hotel in town was run by a couple that left their corporate career and the big cities to take over the hotel from there parents. The wife turned from a lawyer to a cook and we were very happy about this change of career as we had one of the best dinners in Argentina so far. Sometimes you have to go to the end of the world to find good seafood*.
* The recipe of our favourite dish there will be soon available on The Moving Cookbook 🙂